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Goldsmith Q&A: How Fine Jewelry Is Crafted at Wove

From wax to setting, Wove goldsmiths answer your top questions and explain how our prototype replicas, at-home try-on, and meticulous finishing deliver heirloom-quality.

Goldsmith Q&A: How Fine Jewelry Is Crafted at Wove

How long does it take to make a custom engagement ring?

Making a custom engagement ring can take anywhere from 1 to 2 days depending on how intricate it is. We starting from scratch by doing the casting. The we clean it, size it, set all the stones, and then comes the final polishing. It can take longer than that depending on how intricate the ring is.

What are common issues you see in custom rings?

The longevity of a ring is an important issue we make sure to address, which typically means making a thicker shank. Bezels are also great for longevity. When you're adding stones to especially small places, you're drilling into that metal, and taking away more metal that is actually supporting other elements in the ring. So, adding stones to parts such as the under prongs can lessen the structural integrity of that ring.

How does a goldsmith collaborate with CAD designer?

When a request from a client comes in, we vet the request to see if it's functionally feasible for a final product that will stand the test of time. We collaborate with the CAD designer more when we're doing rings that are involving channel setting, because getting those stones especially baguettes or princess cut, to sit correctly in a channel can be so difficult. We also collaborate more on any ring with an engraving, filigree, pave, because the layout is so important in rings with those intricate elements.

How does a ring try on work?

We love that we offer a try-on ring! It's sort of like a run through of the final ring. We get to really get into the project. We understand what the good parts are about the design as well as the pain points and then the final ring really comes together in this perfect final product. The great thing about the try-on ring is that you get to keep it so you can wear it for things that you wouldn't necessarily want your real engagement ring to be worn for like rock climbing, going to the gym or swimming because the try-on ring isn't really meant for lasting wearability. It's great to wear as a replacement for your actual engagement ring so won't lose or mark up your actual engagement ring.

What kinds of materials work together and which don’t?

Yellow gold, because it is a naturally mined element, is a great choice for engagement rings. White Gold is not actually found in nature, so it works well. I love platinum for engagement rings since it's pretty durable! I would stay away from palladium as well as some of the softer birthstones because it's something that you're going to wear all the time and the softer birthstones will scratch easier. Rubies, sapphires, or diamonds are more durable stones to use in an engagement ring and you want to stay away from softer gemstones like pearls or amethyst.

What’s your favorite part of the ring creation process?

I love seeing the ring come from the basic elements like gold and platinum and go to this amazing finished piece. It really is amazing to see it from the very beginning and see it at the end and just understand all of the different processes that this ring has gone through to come to this point. It’s even more exciting than you can imagine!

How should I clean my ring?

The best way to clean your engagement ring is to use Dawn dish soap, warm water and a toothbrush. You can use your toothbrush get in all those little crevices, rinse it off in warm water and you're good to go!

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Engagement rings and wedding bands
Engagement rings and wedding bands