We see you, knee-deep in Princess cuts while scrolling through Pinterest. It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the barrage of diamond shape trends out there. And just like any other trend, diamond shapes come and go in popularity. This can leave you wondering, which diamond shape is right for me? Knowing the basics about each diamond shape will help you decide which fits best with your unique style and budget.
Each diamond shape has its own set of defining characteristics, and while you’ve probably heard the words “shape” and “cut” used interchangeably, we are here to tell you that they aren’t actually the same thing. Diamond shape is exactly what you think it is: the literal shape of the stone. A diamond’s cut has to do with your inability to focus on the road while your ring sparkles from the steering wheel. It is referring to a diamond's size, symmetry, and polish. Our diamond experts at Wove have curated a list of the most popular diamond shapes – as well as each shape’s strengths and weaknesses – to help guide you in the right direction.
Round
When you think of a classic diamond, you are probably thinking of a round cut. Also known as the brilliant cut, the round cut is the most popular diamond shape on the market due to its versatility and timeless appeal. Its shape allows for the maximum reflection of light, so if you want an eye-catching diamond that will endure the test of time, the round cut won’t disappoint. And it tends to look good on most finger types. But keep in mind, the cost per carat is higher due to how much of the rough diamond is lost during the cutting process.
Oval
Next in line is the oval cut, which has become increasingly popular thanks to celebrities like Blake Lively and Kourtney Kardashian. And while they are just as versatile as round cut diamonds, oval diamonds can look larger in carat size thanks to an illusion created by the surface area, so couples feel like they are getting more for less. With no sharp edges, oval cut diamonds are less likely to snag on things or sustain damage, which makes them more durable and easier to care for. There are a few things to consider when you are buying an oval cut. Look out for the bow-tie effect, a darkened area created by light obstruction. All oval cuts have this to some degree, and while a little bit adds some definition to your diamond, too much of this effect is a big turn off. The unique shape of an oval cut is both a blessing and a curse, so it may take time to find the one that is the right proportion, size and overall look for you.
Cushion
One of the oldest diamond cuts, the cushion cut is known for its timeless elegance and versatility. A cushion cut diamond combines a square shape with rounded edges, bearing some resemblance to a pillow. Cushion cuts have risen in popularity over the years thanks in part to their affordability and unique shape that allows for a more personalized ring. One of the weaknesses of a cushion cut is that large facets on the diamond can make imperfections easier to see. Not to mention, it is one of the more confusing cuts, so often you’ll hear other terms like “classic cushion,” “chunky cushion,” and “crushed ice. We suggest working closely with a jewelry expert when choosing the perfect cushion diamond to avoid potential headaches.
Pear
With its tapered point and rounded bottom, the pear cut is appropriately named after its fruity counterpart. Also known as teardrop diamonds, pear-shaped diamonds provide the same sparkle as a round cut but are more affordable in comparison. What’s also great about the pear shape is that it is very versatile, so whether you are going for a vintage, modern, or a more traditional look, the pear cut looks absolutely stunning whatever style you choose. However, pear cuts are also prone to the bow-tie effect, so keep that in mind while making your selection. You will also find that the pointed end is more fragile and susceptible to damage, so opt for a protective setting, such as a bezel or v-tipped prong.
Princess
A fan-favorite, the princess cut stands out as the second most popular diamond cut behind the round cut. The princess cut has a high brilliance for that dramatic sparkle, and we love the way it’s rectangular outline blends a more traditional diamond design with a modern feel. The princess cut appears larger in carat size than other cuts, so it often catches the attention of couples looking to find that show-stopping diamond to fit their budget. Not to mention, this diamond cut hides imperfections well, adding to the appeal. What we don’t like: the corners are more susceptible to damage, so you may be limited on settings to ensure your diamond is well protected.
Marquise
Calling all vintage-loving couples! With its distinct points and sleek curves, the marquise cut combines antique style with eye-catching elegance. Its narrow-shaped design elongates the fingers, making it a flattering cut for the wearer. The delicate cut of the marquise diamond shape means it is vulnerable to damage unless mounted in a protective setting. The marquise cut is also prone to the bow-tie effect that happens with fancy cut diamonds. We think it’s important to see the diamond in person before making a final decision.
Emerald
When we think Hollywood glam, we can’t help but think about the emerald cut. Glamour. Chic. Sophistication. The emerald cut was first intended for the emerald stone to showcase its hue and exquisite beauty, but as it grew in popularity, it was then adopted for use in diamonds. Known as a step cut – which uses steps rather than facets – the emerald cut has a distinct ‘hall of mirrors’ effect. While emerald cut diamonds showcase less brilliance compared to round, princess, and cushion cuts, they tend to stand out thanks to their shallow depth and wide surface area. But this also means that emerald cut diamonds require a step up in color to appear clean and white compared to brilliant cuts.
Asscher
Named after its creator, Joseph Asscher, the Asscher cut features a square shape with cropped corners. And due to its rise in popularity in the 1920’s, the Asscher cut transports us back to the Art Deco era with its vintage allure. Not to be confused for the emerald cut, the Asscher cut also features a step cut, but is more brilliant in appearance. The Asscher cut diamond looks good in most ring settings and is ideal for daily wear thanks to those rounded corners. When shopping for an Asscher cut ring, note that its distinct facets are unforgiving, so they tend to show blemishes in the diamond more clearly. This requires an emphasis on clarity, grade and cut to preserve its brilliance. Another weakness of the Asscher cut is that it can look a lot smaller than other cuts of the same weight because of where that weight is carried.
Radiant
The radiant cut brings the wow-factor with a whopping 70-facet cuts that allow for the maximum amount of light return. That means a glitz party on your finger. Not only is it the most brilliant, but it also tends to hide imperfections well, so the affordability factor comes into play here. Cut quality is important, as this is where the radiant cut shines. (No pun intended.) But we want couples to know that because this cut is relatively rare, it may take time to find the radiant cut diamond that suits your preferences. Radiant cuts aren’t given quality grades under the GIA, so pay special mind to the diamond’s symmetry and overall look. If something seems off to you, it’s because it probably is.
Heart
If you are looking for a diamond shape that truly represents romance, the heart cut is for you. Feminine and symbolic, the heart diamond contains 56-58 facets that capture and reflect light beautifully. Due to their complexity, heart diamonds look best in bezel or three-prong settings. Symmetry is key to a heart cut, so cut is important to get the correct brilliance and shine.
